Circumnavigation of Mallorca.
Published 10:58 on 31 Oct 2023
Circumnavigation of Mallorca, our favourite island in the Balearics, Part 1, By Pam and Martin Smout.
We have spent over 5 years sailing in Eastern Spain and The Balearic Islands. Due to the new Brexit regulations, we now spend 6 weeks Mid - May and June then return for 5 to 6 weeks Mid - September to October sailing to many different places along the Spanish coast and to the Balearic Islands. Then a further few weeks in the winter for boat maintenance and socialising with friends from the marina who all enjoy a few weeks of sunshine in late January and early February. We try to avoid July and August as it can become very hot and extremely busy with charter boats. We keep our boat at Sant Carles de la Rapita Marina on the east coast of Spain near the Ebro Delta halfway between Barcelona and Valencia. A fabulous Puerto, very few tourists and a very friendly Spanish fishing town with lots of beach bars and restaurants.It has been a magnificent experience sailing this area with many very special moments.
Our favourite island is Mallorca with so many Calas (coves), fantastic scenery, lots of secluded anchorages particularly on the east coast. This year we circumnavigated Mallorca, the largest island in the Balearics. The entire coastline stretches around 220 nautical miles. We left Sant Carles marina at dawn, in company with another couple, sailing a boat called Cocobaroo, both boats enjoyed a super sail across the Balearic Sea approximately 105 miles to arrive at Andraitx on the west coast of Mallorca at 7pm.
We find Andraitx a great place to arrive after a long sail as we can book a mooring and it has easy access in poor light conditions. It is a beautiful harbour and has lots of amazing restaurants and an excellent Club de Vela with good amenities plus very helpful Marineros. A place for chilling, walking, eating and taking in the ambiance of a glorious Mediterranean harbour.
We left Andraitx to start our circumnavigation of Mallorca. Our first port of call after Andriatx was Santa Ponsa, a long thin Cala with a beach at the end. There is room for many boats to anchor in clear water. Ideal as a safe anchorage in all winds except a southerly. Onward to our next destination, an anchorage on the south - east coast of Mallorca. No wind first thing but it filled as the morning progressed to a light force 3, close reach, as we progressed along Palma Bay. Once at the south - east corner we sailed up to an anchorage at Playa Del Trench. A very open long white sandy beach near the town of la Rapita, a quiet anchorage in light winds, particularly in winds from the west. Fabulous for early morning paddle boarding and swimming. Clear blue water, multicoloured fish, Rays and sea grass. Anchoring is a little tricky at times in all areas of the Balearics as the authority's fine boats that anchor in sea grass even the chain must to be clear. They are referred to as the sea grass police and can fine boats up to 1,000. They are on patrol in most anchorages however if one is careful, it is usually possible to find a good spot in the clear blue water.
Mallorca and Islands of Cabrera, Part 2 -
Martin and I continue our journey in our boat Enjoy Life, (we didnt name her) around Mallorca in company with our friends on Cocobaroo.
We have always wanted to revisit the Isla of Cabrera. In order to moor on the buoys laid in the Isla de Cabrera, or even enter the bays, a permit must first be obtained. It is necessary to book and pay beforehand. Invariably there is no availability due to the charter companies block booking the moorings. The booking is quite complicated online fortunately we were able to book two nights for both boats.
However there was a three - day delay so we decided to sail up to Porto Colom, a lovely old harbour, in fact considered the best sheltered harbour in strong winds within the Balearics. We travelled past the most beautiful calas. One favourite is Cala Mondrago, a tiny Cala with the clearest blue water. It was the first Cala we visited five years ago, it was deserted and is surrounded by a National Park so lots of walking and exploring. However, it gets very busy in July and August.
There are so many beautiful calas along this stretch of coastline it is impossible to name them. We have sailed here so many times lapping up the beautiful scenery towards Porto Pedro, a charming little harbour though can be a little bumpy in a south easterly swell. On ward to Porto Colom. A very old harbour with traditional Spanish houses, restaurants and cafes. We had previously booked two moorings and were guided to them by very helpful marineros. A very pretty, relaxing ambience. We enjoyed two days at this special harbour and then sped back down to Cabrera the next day.
Or rather a slow relaxing sail in about 8 knots of wind, a broad reach, our boat Enjoy Life is a joy to sail as she picks up and moves beautifully for her size, we managed a comfortable five to six knots. We had been so lucky with the weather, clear blue skies and the odd rain at night but we were expecting a little more cloud and wind over the next few days.
We arrived in Cabrera early evening, found our mooring and enjoyed a beautiful sunset. Up early the next morning to a rather cloudy day. We went ashore to explore. The islands are a national park, it is necessary to get permission to land. There is a castle on the hills at the entrance and a tiny taverna at the little dock at one end of the harbour. We spent the morning walking up to the castle and discovering the history of the islands. The castle is thought to date back to the 1400 and was built as a defence against pirates. There are several species of fauna, flora and lizards unique to the archipelago and a haven for a number of rare birds.
Rare black lizards said only to exist on Cabrera. We found many along our walk to the castle. There are no tourist developments, no jet skis, no noise and only other seafarers for company: this place is as near to heaven as it gets in the Balearics. We also enjoyed a delicious, traditional, simple tapas at the taverna. As it is only possible to book for two nights, we sailed away up the east coast the next morning in beautiful sunshine and surprisingly very little wind. Past the delightful Calas, Porto Petro, Porto Colom and Porto Cristo up towards the Northeast tip of Mallorca where we discovered a tiny Cala Motro, which our friends had recommended. We thought it would be a tranquil anchorage for the night in very light airs, no problem. It was the worst night we have ever spent at anchor. The swell rolled in about midnight and bounced on the rocks back towards our boats continually till dawn when both boats decided to leave.
Next stop Alcudia Bay. We motored around the north-east tip past Cabo Farrutx and into the bay. Beautiful white sands and so many deserted anchorages. We anchored off the Puerto de Alcudia, very calm, thank goodness. Onward to our next destination Soller, around the northwestern tip past Bahia de Pollensa and around the cap de Formentor. Again, the winds were light, a very calm sea and pure blue skies.
This side of Mallorca is much more mountainous with very dramatic scenery. Heavy gusts can descend from the high land around the passage without warning. On a previous trip around this coast, we were happily sailing in 15 knots of wind and suddenly were hit by 30 plus knots. Quite disconcerting, it then eased and 20mins later the same happened again. This occurred on many occasions as we sail down this stretch of coast.
Thankfully this time the wind was kind to us. We passed a number of famous spectacular Calas. Cala de la Calobra, a large Cala with several mini bays and a slit in the high rocky cliffs behind through which the Torrente de Pareis enters the sea, more often a gentle stream. This Cala is considered one of the sights of Mallorca and is a popular destination by road and sea.
We arrived in Soller, anchored in the eastern side of the harbour our circumnavigation complete.
A superb harbour, beautiful town and even a sandy beach with a traditional railway that goes through the mountain all the way to Palma. We enjoyed a walk ashore before eating aboard ready for an early journey back to Sant Carles in Spain. A very easy 14 - hour sail in calm waters arriving before sunset. A perfect fortnight sailing in the Balearics in company with friends.
