A different kind of Cruise.
Published 09:55 on 16 Nov 2023
Portsmouth to Southampton by the pretty route! In actual fact via Azores, Bermuda, Bahamas, Panama Canal, Ecuador, Peru, Chile, Cape Horn; then four days of penguins, glaciers, whales and volcanic islands off the Antarctic Peinsula, followed by Port Staley, Argentina, Uruguay, Brazil, Cape Verde and Tenerife. The voyage of a lifetime, taking me far from the English winter for most of January, all February and the greater part of March 2023. People have inquired if all this was accomplished in Hasty Fish! I doubt I could have done that in 11 months, let alone 11 weeks, indeed there is no way I could have done it at all.
No, I was aboard the Fred Olsen cruise ship Balmoral, relatively small, with only half her passenger capacity. The worst weather of the whole trip was sailing south across the Bay of Biscay. Much calmer were the 5 days sailing across the Atlantic to the Carribean. Although many of the shore experiences were fascinating to my mind there was nothing to beat sea days, with predictable routine and a sense of timelessness.
First real excitement on "the other side of the pond" was the passage through the Panama Canal. Woke late (7.15am) when we were already in the third of the vast "step-up" Gatun locks. Once through most of the passage is across the large man-made Gatun Lake, full of tree-clad islands and lovely vistas. Then the Culebra Cut, the dug-out stretch of canal, still subject to landslip today, and finally the "step-down" locks to the Gulf of Panama.
As we turned south the upper deck filled with the ample haunches and paunches of seasoned cruisers in sunbathing mode. On the morning of Burns Night we enjoyed a crossing the line ceremony, mainly involving the ships hierarchy, voluntary for passengers. (No, since you ask!). Guayaquil in Ecuador was notable for a large number of very tame iguanas in a small park in the city centre. Most of Peru, including Machu Pichu, had to be bypased owing to political unrest, except for Callao where a lot of changes of crew, including the Captain were scheduled
On to Chile, where rainfall is literally zero in Africa in the far north. Blazing heat as we continued south, visiting olive farms and vineyards. Further south it became increasingly chilly and misty, with only intermittent views of the Chilean fjords, snowcapped volcanic peaks and spectacular Tierra del Fuego. Valentines Day found us sitting in the sun, on a dead flat sea, taking photographs of Cape Horn. So much for its fearsome reputation.
Then the highlight of the voyage, four days' cruising round the channels, bays, glaciers and ice-walls ot the Antarctica Peninsula. This is effectively a continuation of the Andes, so still volcanic with towering peaks. Mini-icebergs galore wandered past, often carrying penguins or seals. Finally set off NE passing various islands, notably Elephant Island, where Shackleton's crew was marooned , then the rather sad and bleak Falklands. Gradually hotter again as we sailed north , visiting Uruguay , Argentina and Brazil. Wonderful evening of tango exhibition in Buenos Aires followed by spectacular visit to Rio de Janeiro, ascent to the statue of Christ the Redeemer, and private Mass in the tiny chapel built into its base.
From Recife in Brazil we aimed for the Cape Verde islands, passing close to the Brazilian island of Fernando de Noronha. Imagine my surprise, three hours later, as I watched the sunset from the top deck, when the sun suddenly swung 180 degrees round the bow as we executed a u-ey to return to the island to evacuate a medical emergency. Despite this we arrived in Cape Verde on schedule, having re-crossed the line wh due ceremony en route. Both Cape Verde and Tenerife, our final stop, were extremely dry and volcanic. Volcanoes and whales, which we saw in large numbers off Tenerife, were constant themes of this unforgettable trip. I maintained throughout that, athough I loved the places we visited , cruising was not really my thing. But guess what, Iceland in September and Funchal in November are already booked!
~ By Carolyn Schofield.
