Cruisers ~ Douane, North Easterlies and Zero under the keel

Published 10:42 on 26 Jun 2023

2nd May to 9th June 2023 

Although we had rushed through eight years ago (Falmouth, Camaret, La Rochelle) to arrive in time for a party, this was a six-week exploration of Brittany, destination La Rochelle. 

Setting off from St Peter Port we were happily cruising in company for a few days with Tamarisk (Adrian P and Theo S) who suggested St Quay marina and a taxi to St Brieuc to meet the men in uniform with guns. We had a great 50nm reach from Guernsey after a slightly boisterous start. Three miles off St Quay as the wind veered onto our nose a bit, we turned on the engine to heat water for arrival. Tamarisk were seemingly content with Corinthian cold showers.  The marina staff were keen to assist with the passport stamping and arranged a taxi for four and an appointment with the Douane in St Brieuc the following morning. On arrival at an unlikely looking building on an industrial estate we kicked our heels for 10 minutes: it felt like waiting outside the headmasters study! Fifteen minutes later, the relief of seeing the fourth passport stamped without even the threat of any corporal punishment was palpable.

Tamarisk headed for Lezardrieux the following day. We were leaving about an hour later when the visibility started threatening so after our Guernsey pea-souper we stayed put and caught the tide into Paimpol the following day. Properly en-route now next Treguier where the perils of the shallow and rocky coast were underlined to us by a Dutchman on a nice 38 footer he had acquired from a friend who had sunk it; impaled on one of the numerous rocks in the offing in pre-chart plotter days. 

Leaving Treguier the NE wind helpfully winged us to the delights of Roscoff but three weeks later when it was still blowing 24hrs a day 4/5 gusting 7 we were hoping for some relief. Nevertheless, it took us to LAberach, Camaret, through the Raz without incident and into a pleasantly warm Benodet where we moored with unexpected very welcome assistance from Little Dove. Party time!

Time prevented visits to Isles de Glenan and Isle de Groix but we made the most of Concarneau and Lorient (Port-Louis). We were impressed by the Eric Tabarly museum and the enormous legacy of adventure sailing (Moitessier etc) which continues to inspire the younger generations. We then hit The Morbihan just at the end of La Semaine with Tall Ships, serious racers and cruisers in huge numbers. Vannes for a couple of nights was unmissable but on leaving we saw zero under the keel 90 minutes after high water which could have been very embarrassing: blocking the entrance for a whole tide! Later that day, heading for Piriac-Sur-Mer at 2.5kn waiting for the tidal gate, we even did some heaving to practice whilst reflecting on the warmth and tidal freedoms of the Med which await us. After quite a lot of stooging about we headed in to the harbour zero under the keel again but at least this time it was on a rising tide. 

We had a lucky escape from St Nazaire where family were arriving by train to join us. It seems yachts dont often go in there so we carried on to the delightful Pornic: a 25 minute taxi from the station. Now the weather was warming up and the North Easterlies abated. Lherbaudiere, Port Joinville Isle dYeu (lovely bus ride, walk and crepe as advised by Little Dove) and into Les Sables-DOlonne Quai Garnier which was very comfortable and close to the beach and town centre. All that remained was a couple of nights in the fantastic St-Martin-de-Re and into La Rochelle Port des Minimes where the visitors pontoon sported two other SYC boats and enormous catamarans being sold to Australians. If things go to plan, Orcas permitting, the next time we see her, Swift will be in San Carles de La Rapita courtesy of a Halcyon Yachts delivery crew. 

~ Rob & Sue